Saturday, February 27, 2010

Bouteille Call

A selection of recent local reviews for some of our 'bouteilles'

Bourgogne Blanc, 2007, Domain Fontaine Gagnard, Burgundy.
"The classical chardonnays of France’s burgundy region are totally different to the sunshiny chardonnays to which many Australians are accustomed. Subtlety, texture, length of flavor and balance are very important in these wines, not just ripe fruit character. Fontaine Gagnard is an important Chassagne Montrachet estate in Burgundy’s chardonnay heartland and this 2007 Bourgogne is an excellent introduction to the regional identity.

It offers a complex, honeyed nose of nectarine syrup, citrus, nutty dry oatmeal, and a skillful seasoning of subtle oak. The palate is silky, dry, seamless and long in flavour, with a bracing cut of acidity."


Wine Of The Week, Ralph Kyte Powell, Epicure (The Age) 02/02/2010
(**** First class, a wine of distinction)

La Bastide, Chateau Coupe Roses, 2007, Minervois, Languedoc.
"Chateau Coupe Roses have great respect for the old-vine carignan that prospers on the estates craggy hills. La Bastide is a carignan-grenache blend that fully deserves the epithet ‘honest’. The nose is still muted but in the mouth the wine is ripe and savoury with the flavors of old vine carignan to the fore; earthy black fruits, herbs and dried flowers. It’s not long off the boat and should be in good shape for easy, engaging spring drinking."
Gourmet Traveller Wine, Feb/March 2010.


Cuvee Particuliere, 2008, Pierre De Prunet, Vin de Pays de Mont Baudile.
"The Prunet white is 100 per cent Grenache blanc, a generous, fruity wine that avoids any oiliness. Instead, there is nice roundness, a good lick of acidity, and the taste of lemon, guava, and spring flowers. A lilting wine and a great aperitif."
Gourmet Traveller Wine, Feb/March 2010.

Domaine de L'R, Chino; new agency


Domaine de l'R is a small [5 ha] family estate, located 10 km from Chinon, near Tours in the Central Loire Valley.

These ripe & seductive cabernet franc’s (from old vines) made by the talented, young Frederic Sigonneau, one of the Loire’s most exciting prospects, is a really welcome addition to the portfolio. Both cuvees, Les Cinq Elemnets and Les Folies de Noyer Vert , are from 40-60 year old vines grown on the chalk and sand south of the river; plush and textured suggesting this is the red half of the Loire’s answer to Bordeaux’s Pomerol! Sigonneau is bringing real passion and contemporary thought to his wines, which show little of the historical rusticity of wines from this appellation; we tasted Frederic’s wines again in Melbourne, co-incidentally, alongside one of the Cab Franc superstar producers and the latter paled in comparison (in terms of value and appeal). Organic (awaiting certification).

We have two of L'R's cuvees arriving this April


2007 CHINON “Les 5 Eléments”
(A blend of grapes coming from 5 different vineyards. Age of the vineyard: 50- 65 years old. Low yield, elevage; 100% large vats but 7 months on fine lees)

2007 CHINON “Les Folies du Noyer Vert” $29
(From 45 - 65 years old vines. Low yields,alcoholic fermentation done in large vats with foot "pigeage", malolactique fermentation done in barrels (4 or 5 years old), elevage for 12 months).

N@

Here Today gone to-Moreau

Many thanks to Louis & Anne Moreau for their recent cracking, whistle-stop visit to our fatal shores. Highlights were myriad, not least a great dinner at Luke Mangan's Palace Hotel, a scenic tasting/masterclass @ Spring Street's Siglo and the match of China Doll's Sashimi of Hiramasa Kingfish & Ocean Trout with a 2007 Valmur Grand Cru.

Anne & Louis have asked me to pass on their gratitude and thanks to all those who spared their time, generosity and knowledge to make their visit so rewarding. In short value and typicity were the key to these wines appeal; stylistically the 2007 1er and grand cru's rippled with power and substance, the 2008's had more classic crackle and spit, with the latter 1er crus arriving under stelvin this April.

Chablis, 2008, Domaine Louis Moreau.
This is a very fresh, rather modern, Chablis that combines traditional regional clues with great purity of chardonnay fruit. The nose has steely, mineral notes along with apple and white peach aromas. Its dry, intense and lively, with real savoury presence that lingers in the mouth. A good introduction to this unique French white wine at a fair price.”
Ralph Kyte-Powell , The Age, Epicure, Tuesday January 19th

Chablis 1er Cru Forneaux, 2007, Domaine Louis Moreau.
What a blinder. This Chablis is the real McCoy. Chalky mineral and honeysuckle aromas; soft but nervy flavours with stone fruit, as well as mineral nuances. Piercing, balanced, dry and racy – a great & classic Chablis.” 96/100, Huon Hooke, Sydney Morning Herald. 26/01/2010

Nic@

Friday, February 26, 2010

Good drinking...with a conscience!


Many thanks to the those bohemian wine fanatics at Blackheart & Sparrow’s for raising some much needed dough, with a little help from Heart & Soil, for North Melbourne’s super-duper Lort Smith Animal Hospital. The premise was simple enough; for every bottle of J.J Christoffel Urziger Wurzarten Riesling Trocken sold to their punters, Heart & Soil and Blackhearts would donate two bucks to the good fellows at Lort Smith. The wine sold well and we wrote a cheque in three figures (which, at the very least, is better than a poke in the eye with a shitty stick). Thanks to Paul & the team @ Blackhearts.

And now, as if by magic, a bit more shameless self promotion:

Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Trocken Riesling, 2007, Mosel Valley (Germany). Sold Out

The Ürziger Würzgarten (or spice-garden) is one of Germany’s most famous vineyards. Its wines are fine and minerally, with a thrilling struck-flint aroma and chalky palate. There are floral and baked-apple aromas, too. In the mouth, it’s dry and nervy, and really grows on you as you sip. It’s a properly ripe trocken style, with relatively high (13 per cent) alcohol. A great fish wine, to drink over the next five or six years. Screw-capped.” Huon Hooke, Gourmet Traveller Wine, Feb/March 2010.