There’s life in these old bones, yet!

You can’t beat an aged Muscadet of baffling the hell out of even the most seasoned wine wankers! A Chrissy break-up options games turned up a fourteen year Muscadet (Sevre et Main ‘Sur Lie’) that had tasters scratching their pates in confused smugness: this bottle was strikingly fresh with real physique - a touch of brine & dough on the nose and a mineral-driven character that lingers in the mouth and provides a framework for a background of sweet grapefruits. So well preserved (a ripe vintage (?) to provide requisite fruit to age alongside the towering acidity), we were not even close to the vintage despite getting close to the stylistic source.

Its bloody brilliant and another vinous revelation. Im going to try and source some from the domain and perhaps cellar some cases of the 2007 for a museam (another ripe vintage) from the same producer for this was none other than a 1995 Chateau du Cleray.

1983

Lets not beat around the bush, here; Henri Jayer would have forgotten more about Burgundy than I would ever aspire to know. However, unlike the great man, I have actually enjoyed some 1983 red burgundies of recent, a vintage Jayer himself deemed as rubbish “..I just don’t like them!” I, myself, don’t mind them and a 1983 Joseph Voillot Volany Les Fremiets, in spite of (or, perhaps because of) its sweet benzene/sloe/rotten veg aroma and searing acidity was a lovely match with a gargantuan chicken from the Glenloth Game Farm, on Christmas Day.

When young, Voillot’s wines offer excellent color, soft tannins and great harmony and length. But when mature, they can be magical, boasting pure perfumes, layered flavors, and the fabulous, velvety texture that is mature Burgundy at its best. Im not sure the 83 Fremiets conforms to this last statement, but it’s concentration and balance and the seasons good will lead me to give it the benefit of the doubt. Time to drink up, though.

In the best sense, Joseph Voillot is a classic Burgundy vigneron. He owns parcels in some of the finest premier cru vineyards in his home Volnay and neighboring Pommard. With low yields and vine age averaging 30 years, he has, for decades, produced intense, robust wines that repay cellaring.

Volnay’s Fremiets vineyard is steep and chalky, producing wines that are earthy and fragrant. The Premiers Crus to the north-east of Vlonay are adjoining Pommard - Frémiets, Chanlins, Pitures Dessus and Les Angles. Here the limestone is less evident, and the soils are stony, with a covering of loose shale which detaches itself and washes away in the rain. These wines, Frémiets in particular, tend to emphasize finesse rather than structure.

Nic@

9 out of 10 dogs prefer Diam.

Perhaps a reaction to the ‘inconsistency’ of his regular cork closure and the random-ox allegations that have blighted white burgundy producers since the mid-90’s, Patrick Javillier had bottled, for the first time, all of his Bourgogne and Meursault cuvees under Diam closure. Patrick joins a growing list of our producers using Diam, whose clients now also include Keller in Rheinhessen, Domaine St Dominique in the Languedoc and Domaine Lafage in Roussillon. Our 2008 Louis Moreau AC Chablis already comes bottled under Stevin. Tellingly all these producers have a significant export market to cater for. Some Diam propaganda can be found here and the linked articles by Jamie Goode and Sally Easton MW are quite informative and coincidentally also say nice things about Diam.

Getting sidetracked Moses the dog is particularly fond of the pliable firmness of Diam and much prefers these cork chews over regular cork (these just dissolve when faced with canine mandibles) and synthetic closure’s which apparently leave a bad taste in your mouth?

Nic@

Forgets-Me-Not

Patrick Javillier 2001 Bourgogne Blanc "Cuvee des Forgets" (Cuvee Speciale*)

Once again we fell int the old ‘picking-a-Javillier-Bourgogne-as-a-village-wine-or-above’ trap. But that seems to come as standard, these days. Year in, year out Javillier manages to produce two of the top Bourgogne Blancs in the whole of Burgundy; and both are fine examples of how good Bourgogne Blanc can be in the right hands from the right terroirs and when no expense is spared in the cellar. Patricks Bourgogne wines really do taste like ‘baby Meursault’s’ (the fruit comes from some great terroirs) and competes effortlessly in quality with many growers village wines. From a solid year, this was the first vintage of Javillier we imported and Randall managed to source two bottles this month from Langton’s. Tasted blind you could taste the butter and gras, or fat, of the suns warmth tough underpinned by fine mineral definition. This youthful tasting, almost teasing youthful, wine was picked by a host of imported wine aficionados as young (2-4year old) 1er Cru Burgundy or above. Obviously perfectly cellared it offered an all too limited glimpse of Meursaults evocative sheltered basin of limestone & marl in perfect balance with the season, the grower and the grape.

Patrick Javillier is one of Frances most measured and thoughtful growers, and in his 207 Bourgogne’s he has released a pair of Chardonnay’s of exquisite texture, power and balance. Notes below ripped from his UK importer:

Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée des Forgets: this cuvée comes from 2.25 hectares of Bourgogne Blanc vines within the lieux-dit of ‘Les Herbeux’ in Meursault and ‘Les Vaux’ in Volnay. The vineyards were planted in the early 1970s and the soils are alluvial limestone over silt.

Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Oligocène: 0.75 hectares of 30 year old vines in the Meusault lieu-dit of “Les Pellans” situated below Meursault Charmes. Half of the lieu-dit is classified as Meursault and the other as Bourgogne Blanc, despite having the same limestone soils, and the latter is the only parcel in Meursault of this altitude and soil type not to be able to use the village appellation.

Nic@

The Mother of all grapes!

Some recent news just flashed though my inbox reporting that the repugnant grape Gouais blanc has turned out to be the mother of a wealth of highly regarded offspring including Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Aligoté, Auxerrois and Melon. Gouis, as well as being an obviously pretty frisky little number was the subject of much derision in Europe as far back as the Middle Ages and there were even several high-profile attempts to have its cultivation banned! Ive had the unfortunate experience of tasting a Swiss wine made from this grape and have to say that if has such good DNA under its disguise, It must have been a very good disguise! Heres a tough hypothetical; if you were a grape variety, would you copulate with ugly Gouais, even if it did mean having great looking kids? Full story here.

Nic@

An eclectic line up at Loam (reds)

A heavenly, powerful yet weightless dish of beef tongue, garlic, air-dried tomato & quinoa was eaten with a duo of, well heavenly, powerful, yet weightless red burgs from Etienne Grivot. With structure’s subsumed within a caressing harmony, the 2006 (and 07 for that matter) vintage is a perfect fit for Grivot's own analogy: "the square within the circle" and an Echezeaux and 1er Vosne Romanee 'Les Chaumes' (both 2006, both from 1/2 bottle) looked spectacular on the day. The Vosne; exotic, fragrant with a counterweight of earth and spice; the Echezeaux, deep flavoured and vivid yet as you would hope delicate, filigreed and fragrant. Brilliant wines.

A 'rubble' of 9 month-old manchego; a remarkable, contemporary cheese course served as a foil for our first look at the 2007 Chateauneuf from Vieux Donjon. Once again (2005, 2003,2001,1998, 1990) this cracking old-school domaine have produced an idiosyncratic masterpiece that holds its own with the best of the vintage, albeit sappier (yes, lots and lts of yummy whole bunches and stems!) and more mineral-driven than most we have tried. More on this wine soon!

Thanks to the team at Loam for accommodating our smorgasbord of wine; this is a really special place to eat, offering a rare, true ode to nature’s harvest. Find out more on Loam...........

Loam Restaurant or Loam@Deck of Secrets

Nic@

Land Of The Lips-Stinger

So where the bloody hell are you?

After what seems like a gestation period of a Diplodocus, our Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet (Sur Lie) is finally docking into Melbourne early next week. Aka ‘The Muscadet of the South’ & ‘The ‘Lip Stinger of Languedoc’, this little white has created quite a stir in the trade following a few cameo appearances at recent trade tastings.

Grown on the sandy soils mixed with pebbles (sometimes with gravelly stone) just meters from the oyster beds of the Bassin de Thau, the wine obviously marries perfectly with fish and shellfish. Picpoul actually does mean "lip stinger," which refers to the high acidity of its must. This wine is crisp, but quite long and full with grapefruit/citrus bite nice floral (hawthorn) and mineral notes in the nose. Bracing acidity backs up a wine with surprising breed for this price point. As in Muscadet, a ‘sur lie’ wine must spend at least a full winter in contact with the lees and not be bottled to after the third week of March following the harvest, thus resulting in a fuller, creamier ad more complete wine.

This on the lye of the land from the official AOC website:

The ancient Roman "Via Domitienne" runs right through the area, dividing it into two distinctive terroirs : To the north: lades of garrigue, pines and vines alternate with rocky outcrops, the land dating from the Cretaceous period (+/- 100m years) and Miocene (+/-15m years) epoch. Here the climate is hotter and more humid than on the coastal strip, with abundant Mediterranean type vegetation. In the south: flatter land (consisting of weathered, sandy stones crisscrossed with deep furrows and low hills) sweeps straight to the sea. Vines are the only plants here in a climate tempered by sea breezes and mist. The soil was washed down during the Pliocene (+/- 2m years) epoch.

Nic@

In the Press - Acustic (Montsant)

Bodegadegas Acustic: Montsant

Garnacha and Samsó (Cariñena) drive the red blends of this boutique winery, owned by Albert Jané on the periphery of Priorat. Montsant is bound to suffer from the prestige and pumped-up prices of its neighbour, but Acústic proves that when a winery focuses on the terroir (well-drained stones and sand) and the vines (up to 75 years old), it can make exceptional wines that the world can afford to drink. Alas Acústic's tiny production will never be widely available. The newest arrival in the stable is this unique, complex Rhône-style white.

Decanter Magazine,Spain: Notes from a big country October 9, 2009
John Radford and Sarah Jane Evans.http://www.decanter.com/archive/290377.html

Clos Guirouilh (Jurancon); New Agency

These exciting, cool climate whites from vineyards in the lee of the Pyrenees have been know to me for many years as I used to import and sell the produce of this artisanal estate many years ago in Scotland.

At the helm of this small, traditional domaine, Jean Guirouilh (pron: gear-0-wheel) quietly goes abound making some fine, and very interesting white wines. Jurançon is located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in the Basque region of the South West France, along with the neighboring appellations of Bearn and Irouleguy. It produces lovely dry white wines, yet its international fame lies with its sought-after sweet white wines.

Although small quantities of the strictly local Courbu, Lauzet, and Camaralet grapes sometimes contribute to both the dry and sweet wine blends, Gros Manseng is the major grape variety in Jurançon Sec (dry), producing a refreshing, sappy, richly-flavoured & mineral-tinged style, with pungent floral aromas, yellow stone fruits notes and nuances almond paste. Jean’s vines have been in the ownership of his family for over 400 years and occupy a privileged position on steep slopes at an altitude of 250 m. With an artisanal aim to produce wines that express the specificity of the grape varieties and the soils (pebbly clay/limestone and mountain quartzes), he avoids herbicides, works the soil to encourage deep rooting, and uses natural composts. The attention to detail and terroir-focused approach shows in the wines, which are wonderfully original and offer an authentic taste of the high-country Pyrenees.

Other factors contributing to the style are a distinctive vine-training system where each vine is indevidually staked and high pruned, vineyard altitude (700-1300 feet above sea level, often on steep slopes) and the foehn wind (or chestnut wind) that blows up from Spain in Autumn and gives Jurancon its beatiful late harvest.

Interesting reading: Jefford, Frances Last Trump Card, World of Fine Wine Issue 22, 2008; Paul Strang, South-West France: The Wines and Winemakers, University of California Press, 2009


Clos Guirouilh Jurancon Sec, 2007
A blend of 85% Gros Manseng and 15% Courbu, this fantastic, precise honeysuckle/acasia- sented white represents the core dry white of the domaine. Crisp and sappy in the mouth with a nice balance of acidity and minerality with a spicy note on the finish.

Clos Guirouilh Jurancon Sec, La Pirine, 2006
La Perine (meaning small stones) is a vineyard selection of Gros and Petit Mansent picked mid to late October. It is matured in older oak cask for12 months before botteling. Pure, and succulent wth honey-coated fruit and lingering apricot,this exciting dry white is a step up in both body & volume.

Clos Guirouilh Jurancon Moelleaux, 2005
The sweeter styles of Jurancon rests on the crystalline, sweetness of dehydrated, shriveled Petit and Gros Manseng. This brill sweet wine scooped a coup de coeur in the Guide Hachette 2008; complex, floral, elegant and harmonious, this wine is deliciously, indulgently sweet without being at all cloying.

Nic@

In the Press (Keller, Cleray)

Gourmet Traveller Wine, Dec/Jan 2010

2007 Château du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley (France)
Muscadet is definitely a wine for drinking, not tasting! Made from the melon de Bourgogne grape (nothing to do with muscat!), it has a palish colour, both chalky/mineral and wet-wool aspects to its aroma, and a tangy, lip-smacking acidity. This one is perhaps less austere than some, with better softness and less sulphur. It’s balanced, properly dry and very enjoyable, especially with a simple omelette made with onions, bacon and mushrooms. HH

2008 Keller Trocken Riesling, Rheinhessen (Germany)
This comes from one of Germany’s warmer regions, the Rheinhessen, where drier-style riesling should be easier to make than in colder places like the Mosel. It’s a lovely drink: the fragrance is floral, herbal and faintly honeyed with a hint of struck-flint adding to its complexity. In the mouth it’s intense, steely and very fine, with just a trace of sweetness, finishing perfectly clean. It’s a seamless, harmonious riesling with nothing out of place. Drink it now and for five or six more years. HH

© ACP Magazines Limited, 2007-2009

An eclectic line-up at Loam (whites)

A lovely selection of wines were accompanied by the fascinating and delicious food at Loam, Drysdale, for the Heart & Soil Chrissie lunch.

Vazart Coquart 2004 Blanc de Blancs to start matched with Dutch cream, dill & smoked herring roe. The 04 vintage may have been Champagnes largest in history, though the chardonnay’s from the Cote des Blancs and here, the grand cru village Choulliy are ripe and luxurious. This is a powerful, pure-fruited style that is evidentially approachable as a young wine.

Two wines both accompanied the next brace of courses; Eel, yolk, pumkin, rose, summer flora & Mulloway, asparagus, avacado, tofu, nastorium. A Quincy "Sucellus" (2006, sauvignon) from Jean Tatin placed sauvignon blanc as the anti-hero; barrel-fermented in purpose built barrels made by a local cooper it is powerfully succulent and limpid in texture. Finer and elegant with the food its an interesting, esoteric Loire white that was appreciated by all. The 2005 Savagnin from Jacques Puffeney was a different beast entirely. Powerfully aromatic and dripping in flor character this is the antithesis of the more modern Savagnin Ouille (non-oxidative, dry whites). Of course, it could not have looked less like an Australian albarino (sorry, savagnin) had it tried, and bought on an interesting dicussion on the affect of voile ageing in masking the Jura terroir. A thought-provoking and vivid example from this facinating 'lost garden' in the foothills of France's Alp's.

I’m not sure what’s in Patrick Javillier's pipe at the moment, but judging by the outstanding recent releases I’d certainly like to know. The 2007 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocene (Made from 0.75 hectares of 30 year old vines in the Meursault lieu-dit of “Les Pellans” situated below Meursault Charmes. Half of the lieu-dit is classified as Meursault and the other as Bourgogne Blanc, despite having the same limestone soils, and the latter is the only parcel in Meursault of this altitude and soil type not to be able to use the village appellation), sings like few other wines of this level can. It's a remarkably firm, piercing and a flat-out steal this vintage and we are also pleased to note that Patrick has moved to sealing with Diam for the first time. It was certainly an interesting match for the Squab, rubarb, red currant, milk skin and beach herbs course, though perhaps shaded in this forum by an exotically-plush & ripe 2007 Chinon, served blind, though let's keep the name of the producer under wraps as we try to arrange import rights!

Nic@