An eclectic line-up at Loam (whites)

A lovely selection of wines were accompanied by the fascinating and delicious food at Loam, Drysdale, for the Heart & Soil Chrissie lunch.

Vazart Coquart 2004 Blanc de Blancs to start matched with Dutch cream, dill & smoked herring roe. The 04 vintage may have been Champagnes largest in history, though the chardonnay’s from the Cote des Blancs and here, the grand cru village Choulliy are ripe and luxurious. This is a powerful, pure-fruited style that is evidentially approachable as a young wine.

Two wines both accompanied the next brace of courses; Eel, yolk, pumkin, rose, summer flora & Mulloway, asparagus, avacado, tofu, nastorium. A Quincy "Sucellus" (2006, sauvignon) from Jean Tatin placed sauvignon blanc as the anti-hero; barrel-fermented in purpose built barrels made by a local cooper it is powerfully succulent and limpid in texture. Finer and elegant with the food its an interesting, esoteric Loire white that was appreciated by all. The 2005 Savagnin from Jacques Puffeney was a different beast entirely. Powerfully aromatic and dripping in flor character this is the antithesis of the more modern Savagnin Ouille (non-oxidative, dry whites). Of course, it could not have looked less like an Australian albarino (sorry, savagnin) had it tried, and bought on an interesting dicussion on the affect of voile ageing in masking the Jura terroir. A thought-provoking and vivid example from this facinating 'lost garden' in the foothills of France's Alp's.

I’m not sure what’s in Patrick Javillier's pipe at the moment, but judging by the outstanding recent releases I’d certainly like to know. The 2007 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocene (Made from 0.75 hectares of 30 year old vines in the Meursault lieu-dit of “Les Pellans” situated below Meursault Charmes. Half of the lieu-dit is classified as Meursault and the other as Bourgogne Blanc, despite having the same limestone soils, and the latter is the only parcel in Meursault of this altitude and soil type not to be able to use the village appellation), sings like few other wines of this level can. It's a remarkably firm, piercing and a flat-out steal this vintage and we are also pleased to note that Patrick has moved to sealing with Diam for the first time. It was certainly an interesting match for the Squab, rubarb, red currant, milk skin and beach herbs course, though perhaps shaded in this forum by an exotically-plush & ripe 2007 Chinon, served blind, though let's keep the name of the producer under wraps as we try to arrange import rights!

Nic@