Gourmet Traveller Wine, Dec/Jan 2010
2007 Château du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley (France)
Muscadet is definitely a wine for drinking, not tasting! Made from the melon de Bourgogne grape (nothing to do with muscat!), it has a palish colour, both chalky/mineral and wet-wool aspects to its aroma, and a tangy, lip-smacking acidity. This one is perhaps less austere than some, with better softness and less sulphur. It’s balanced, properly dry and very enjoyable, especially with a simple omelette made with onions, bacon and mushrooms. HH
2008 Keller Trocken Riesling, Rheinhessen (Germany)
This comes from one of Germany’s warmer regions, the Rheinhessen, where drier-style riesling should be easier to make than in colder places like the Mosel. It’s a lovely drink: the fragrance is floral, herbal and faintly honeyed with a hint of struck-flint adding to its complexity. In the mouth it’s intense, steely and very fine, with just a trace of sweetness, finishing perfectly clean. It’s a seamless, harmonious riesling with nothing out of place. Drink it now and for five or six more years. HH
© ACP Magazines Limited, 2007-2009
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