Monday, December 21, 2009

Forgets-Me-Not

Patrick Javillier 2001 Bourgogne Blanc "Cuvee des Forgets" (Cuvee Speciale*)

Once again we fell int the old ‘picking-a-Javillier-Bourgogne-as-a-village-wine-or-above’ trap. But that seems to come as standard, these days. Year in, year out Javillier manages to produce two of the top Bourgogne Blancs in the whole of Burgundy; and both are fine examples of how good Bourgogne Blanc can be in the right hands from the right terroirs and when no expense is spared in the cellar. Patricks Bourgogne wines really do taste like ‘baby Meursault’s’ (the fruit comes from some great terroirs) and competes effortlessly in quality with many growers village wines. From a solid year, this was the first vintage of Javillier we imported and Randall managed to source two bottles this month from Langton’s. Tasted blind you could taste the butter and gras, or fat, of the suns warmth tough underpinned by fine mineral definition. This youthful tasting, almost teasing youthful, wine was picked by a host of imported wine aficionados as young (2-4year old) 1er Cru Burgundy or above. Obviously perfectly cellared it offered an all too limited glimpse of Meursaults evocative sheltered basin of limestone & marl in perfect balance with the season, the grower and the grape.

Patrick Javillier is one of Frances most measured and thoughtful growers, and in his 207 Bourgogne’s he has released a pair of Chardonnay’s of exquisite texture, power and balance. Notes below ripped from his UK importer:

Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée des Forgets: this cuvée comes from 2.25 hectares of Bourgogne Blanc vines within the lieux-dit of ‘Les Herbeux’ in Meursault and ‘Les Vaux’ in Volnay. The vineyards were planted in the early 1970s and the soils are alluvial limestone over silt.

Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Oligocène: 0.75 hectares of 30 year old vines in the Meusault lieu-dit of “Les Pellans” situated below Meursault Charmes. Half of the lieu-dit is classified as Meursault and the other as Bourgogne Blanc, despite having the same limestone soils, and the latter is the only parcel in Meursault of this altitude and soil type not to be able to use the village appellation.

Nic@

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