9 out of 10 dogs prefer Diam.

Perhaps a reaction to the ‘inconsistency’ of his regular cork closure and the random-ox allegations that have blighted white burgundy producers since the mid-90’s, Patrick Javillier had bottled, for the first time, all of his Bourgogne and Meursault cuvees under Diam closure. Patrick joins a growing list of our producers using Diam, whose clients now also include Keller in Rheinhessen, Domaine St Dominique in the Languedoc and Domaine Lafage in Roussillon. Our 2008 Louis Moreau AC Chablis already comes bottled under Stevin. Tellingly all these producers have a significant export market to cater for. Some Diam propaganda can be found here and the linked articles by Jamie Goode and Sally Easton MW are quite informative and coincidentally also say nice things about Diam.

Getting sidetracked Moses the dog is particularly fond of the pliable firmness of Diam and much prefers these cork chews over regular cork (these just dissolve when faced with canine mandibles) and synthetic closure’s which apparently leave a bad taste in your mouth?

Nic@

Forgets-Me-Not

Patrick Javillier 2001 Bourgogne Blanc "Cuvee des Forgets" (Cuvee Speciale*)

Once again we fell int the old ‘picking-a-Javillier-Bourgogne-as-a-village-wine-or-above’ trap. But that seems to come as standard, these days. Year in, year out Javillier manages to produce two of the top Bourgogne Blancs in the whole of Burgundy; and both are fine examples of how good Bourgogne Blanc can be in the right hands from the right terroirs and when no expense is spared in the cellar. Patricks Bourgogne wines really do taste like ‘baby Meursault’s’ (the fruit comes from some great terroirs) and competes effortlessly in quality with many growers village wines. From a solid year, this was the first vintage of Javillier we imported and Randall managed to source two bottles this month from Langton’s. Tasted blind you could taste the butter and gras, or fat, of the suns warmth tough underpinned by fine mineral definition. This youthful tasting, almost teasing youthful, wine was picked by a host of imported wine aficionados as young (2-4year old) 1er Cru Burgundy or above. Obviously perfectly cellared it offered an all too limited glimpse of Meursaults evocative sheltered basin of limestone & marl in perfect balance with the season, the grower and the grape.

Patrick Javillier is one of Frances most measured and thoughtful growers, and in his 207 Bourgogne’s he has released a pair of Chardonnay’s of exquisite texture, power and balance. Notes below ripped from his UK importer:

Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée des Forgets: this cuvée comes from 2.25 hectares of Bourgogne Blanc vines within the lieux-dit of ‘Les Herbeux’ in Meursault and ‘Les Vaux’ in Volnay. The vineyards were planted in the early 1970s and the soils are alluvial limestone over silt.

Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Oligocène: 0.75 hectares of 30 year old vines in the Meusault lieu-dit of “Les Pellans” situated below Meursault Charmes. Half of the lieu-dit is classified as Meursault and the other as Bourgogne Blanc, despite having the same limestone soils, and the latter is the only parcel in Meursault of this altitude and soil type not to be able to use the village appellation.

Nic@

An eclectic line-up at Loam (whites)

A lovely selection of wines were accompanied by the fascinating and delicious food at Loam, Drysdale, for the Heart & Soil Chrissie lunch.

Vazart Coquart 2004 Blanc de Blancs to start matched with Dutch cream, dill & smoked herring roe. The 04 vintage may have been Champagnes largest in history, though the chardonnay’s from the Cote des Blancs and here, the grand cru village Choulliy are ripe and luxurious. This is a powerful, pure-fruited style that is evidentially approachable as a young wine.

Two wines both accompanied the next brace of courses; Eel, yolk, pumkin, rose, summer flora & Mulloway, asparagus, avacado, tofu, nastorium. A Quincy "Sucellus" (2006, sauvignon) from Jean Tatin placed sauvignon blanc as the anti-hero; barrel-fermented in purpose built barrels made by a local cooper it is powerfully succulent and limpid in texture. Finer and elegant with the food its an interesting, esoteric Loire white that was appreciated by all. The 2005 Savagnin from Jacques Puffeney was a different beast entirely. Powerfully aromatic and dripping in flor character this is the antithesis of the more modern Savagnin Ouille (non-oxidative, dry whites). Of course, it could not have looked less like an Australian albarino (sorry, savagnin) had it tried, and bought on an interesting dicussion on the affect of voile ageing in masking the Jura terroir. A thought-provoking and vivid example from this facinating 'lost garden' in the foothills of France's Alp's.

I’m not sure what’s in Patrick Javillier's pipe at the moment, but judging by the outstanding recent releases I’d certainly like to know. The 2007 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocene (Made from 0.75 hectares of 30 year old vines in the Meursault lieu-dit of “Les Pellans” situated below Meursault Charmes. Half of the lieu-dit is classified as Meursault and the other as Bourgogne Blanc, despite having the same limestone soils, and the latter is the only parcel in Meursault of this altitude and soil type not to be able to use the village appellation), sings like few other wines of this level can. It's a remarkably firm, piercing and a flat-out steal this vintage and we are also pleased to note that Patrick has moved to sealing with Diam for the first time. It was certainly an interesting match for the Squab, rubarb, red currant, milk skin and beach herbs course, though perhaps shaded in this forum by an exotically-plush & ripe 2007 Chinon, served blind, though let's keep the name of the producer under wraps as we try to arrange import rights!

Nic@