These exciting, cool climate whites from vineyards in the lee of the Pyrenees have been know to me for many years as I used to import and sell the produce of this artisanal estate many years ago in Scotland.
At the helm of this small, traditional domaine, Jean Guirouilh (pron: gear-0-wheel) quietly goes abound making some fine, and very interesting white wines. Jurançon is located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in the Basque region of the South West France, along with the neighboring appellations of Bearn and Irouleguy. It produces lovely dry white wines, yet its international fame lies with its sought-after sweet white wines.
Although small quantities of the strictly local Courbu, Lauzet, and Camaralet grapes sometimes contribute to both the dry and sweet wine blends, Gros Manseng is the major grape variety in Jurançon Sec (dry), producing a refreshing, sappy, richly-flavoured & mineral-tinged style, with pungent floral aromas, yellow stone fruits notes and nuances almond paste. Jean’s vines have been in the ownership of his family for over 400 years and occupy a privileged position on steep slopes at an altitude of 250 m. With an artisanal aim to produce wines that express the specificity of the grape varieties and the soils (pebbly clay/limestone and mountain quartzes), he avoids herbicides, works the soil to encourage deep rooting, and uses natural composts. The attention to detail and terroir-focused approach shows in the wines, which are wonderfully original and offer an authentic taste of the high-country Pyrenees.
Other factors contributing to the style are a distinctive vine-training system where each vine is indevidually staked and high pruned, vineyard altitude (700-1300 feet above sea level, often on steep slopes) and the foehn wind (or chestnut wind) that blows up from Spain in Autumn and gives Jurancon its beatiful late harvest.
Interesting reading: Jefford, Frances Last Trump Card, World of Fine Wine Issue 22, 2008; Paul Strang, South-West France: The Wines and Winemakers, University of California Press, 2009
Clos Guirouilh Jurancon Sec, 2007
A blend of 85% Gros Manseng and 15% Courbu, this fantastic, precise honeysuckle/acasia- sented white represents the core dry white of the domaine. Crisp and sappy in the mouth with a nice balance of acidity and minerality with a spicy note on the finish.
Clos Guirouilh Jurancon Sec, La Pirine, 2006
La Perine (meaning small stones) is a vineyard selection of Gros and Petit Mansent picked mid to late October. It is matured in older oak cask for12 months before botteling. Pure, and succulent wth honey-coated fruit and lingering apricot,this exciting dry white is a step up in both body & volume.
Clos Guirouilh Jurancon Moelleaux, 2005
The sweeter styles of Jurancon rests on the crystalline, sweetness of dehydrated, shriveled Petit and Gros Manseng. This brill sweet wine scooped a coup de coeur in the Guide Hachette 2008; complex, floral, elegant and harmonious, this wine is deliciously, indulgently sweet without being at all cloying.
Nic@
Jurancon Sec La Pierine, Tasted again 15/12/09: Dence, smooth and very expressive. Its well integrated with an almost sub tropical fuit profile and rieslingesque balance.
ReplyDelete